
Our action-packed, rather scheduled first few days on the western-most point of the island were welcomed by a screeching halt of pace as we made our way southeast, inland, then down and around the highway that winds around the circumference of the island. The urban activity dwindles, the fields of sugar cane, lush rainforest, and cloud-covered mountains emerge. This was clearly a different Jamaica than what we had seen, and I loved the transition.
Welcome to Jake's, on Treasure Beach, Jamaica.
Jakes is a true one-of-a-king getaway. Comprised of approximately 15-20 bohemian cottages painted with vivid colors and carrying a clear Gaudi .
design influence, this boutique hotel has been known to house a diverse guest list including many international travelers from across the globe as well as celebrities needing a secluded hideaway. As my masseuse, Joshua, said as he worked through the everyday tensions from my aching muscles in the thatched roof hut over the crashing ocean, "Nothing to do. Nowhere to be. Nothing to do." And let me tell you, he was right-on. I don't know about you, but I am a busy-body, and it takes forced inactivity, by way of "nothing to do", to really make me relax; of course, inactivity excludes things like staring into the crystal waves, sipping native concoctions, napping, reading, and repeating. Our daily agenda at Jakes was:
- breakfast at the main restaurant, at which I failed to sway from the Spanish omelet (w/ sweet peppers, tomatoes and onions sauteed in a spicy sauce - mmmm!) and a cup or 2 of strong, aromatic blue mountain java

- a stroll along the black sand beach (way too hot to lay out)
- a swim in the shaded salt water pool
- lunch at Jack Sprats (on premise): jerk shrimp with rice and peas (red beans), or jerk sausage thin-crust pizza (not a low calorie trip!)
- A drink at Dougie's poolside bar (he has been pouring drinks @ Jake's for about 15 years, and his signature Rum Punch is sensational), a nap, a read, a drink, a nap, etc
- Dinner - snapper, king fish, conch
- Star gazing
- Sleep and repeat
Could I have stayed longer than 3 days at Jakes? Probably not, but I truly treasured the getaway. The southern coast has not been trounced by tourism (at least not yet) since its pretty tough to get to (2 hours from Montego Bay, a $115 one-way cab fare, and a windy mountain road trip that is not for the weak-stomach ), the seas are far more turbulent and the currents too strong to swim in, and the beaches are
black sand as opposed to the 7 miles of white sand beached in Negril. And I hope it stays unspoiled.
On our final day at Jakes, we upgraded from our small one-bedroom cottage called Starfish to a larger, seafront (more like, on top of the sea) cottage called Sea Puss II, complete with an outdoor stone shower, a James Bond book collection (apparently the books were authored close by) and French doors that literally open to a deck sitting on the crashing ocean. The downside, its tough to get a cottage at Jakes with AC, and let me tell you, it was simply too hot at night even with the ocean breeze.
Also, on our last day, we took the advice of a couple visiting from the UK,
and hopped onto an engine powered canoe and made our way out the the Pelican Bar, a hut built on stilts on a sandbar about 20 minutes from Jakes, literally in the middle of the sea. It was constructed by, and is operated by, a man named Floyd, and is a must-see/must-do if visiting Treasure Beach. The seas were rough, and I was freaking out at times especially as dusk approached, but I really loved it.
I hesitate to encourage you to visit Jake's and Treasure Beach as I am sure one day the good-word will be out, and this hidden jewel will be found on the list of Caribbean must see destinations. Til then, keep it hush hush :)